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Durian, The King of Fruits

durian

"The five cells of the durian are silky-white within and are filled with a mass of firm, cream-colored pulp, containing about three seeds each. This pulp is the edible part, and its consistence and flavor are indescribable. A rich butter-like custard highly flavored with almonds gives the best general idea of it, but intermingled with it come wafts of flavor that call to mind cream-cheese, onion sauce, brown sherry and other incongruities.

Then there is a rich glutinous smoothness in the pulp which nothing else possesses, but which adds to it delicacy. It is neither acid nor sweet, nor juicy; yet one feels the want of none of these qualities, for it is perfect as it is. It produces no nausea or other bad effect, and the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop. In fact to eat durians is a new sensation, worth a voyage to the East to experience."

This description of the durian, also known as the "king of fruits", by British naturalist, Alfred Russel Wallace in The Malay Archipelago (1869) has to be the most pleasant I have ever read from a Westerner, not to mention the kindest.

Normally, the pungent stench of the fruit tends to get not so gentle comparisons such as rotten fish, fermented onions and overripe cheese. Some say the fruit will even gag a starving vulture. Others claim it tastes like Heaven, smells like Hell.

Relating his encounter with the durian, celebrity chef and bestselling author, Anthony Bourdain said: "Your breath will smell as if you'd been French-kissing your dead grandmother."

I still find these descriptions rather exaggerated.

It is true that the durian is not easily appreciated by some people, the western palate, in particular. But no matter how many repulsive descriptions have been conceived to explain the smell and the taste of this tropical fruit, millions of people in Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, and Indonesia are still mad about this King of Fruits. Due to its obnoxious smell, the durian has been banned from certain public areas like hotels.

I'm not a durian fan myself. In fact, it's been more than 10 years since I tasted one. Somehow, the smell alone is enough to make me dizzy. No kidding.

Till a week ago when I started to write this piece, I knew I had to be reminded of the taste that I had long forgotten. I thought a bite would be sufficient to refresh my memory. I was certain that I wouldn't like it especially after such a long ‘separation'. But the ‘reunion' proved me wrong!

That's what's amazing about the durian, I suppose. Seriously, despite the unappetising look and smell, the same can't be said about the taste. Like Wallace expressed, "the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop".

I used to eat this during my younger days as I was surrounded by people who were totally obsessed with it.

Perhaps, the obsession has to do with the reputed power of the fruit as an aphrodisiac. Some say - "when the durians come down from the trees, the sarong comes off"!

When this tropical fruit was in season, some of my relatives and friends would buy them in bulk to satisfy their insatiable craving for the fruit. A lorry would be used if a car wasn't big enough to accommodate their purchases.

Inhaling is a difficult task when one is trapped in a car loaded with this hedgehog-like fruit. Don't even think of leaving it in your car for some time, especially in the afternoon. Big mistake! They don't call it the "king of fruits" for nothing.

Durian aficionados are willing to fork out the big bucks to get the tastiest variety.

Talking about variety, I was amazed at the amount of varieties available in the market these days. Besides the usual grade of D24, there are various grades with interesting names like XO, Udang Merah, Traka and Raja Kunyit which are priced according to their weight. (Tourism Malaysia)




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