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Visiting a Mengkak Longhouse and Enjoying the Iban Culture in Sarawak

Upon entering the Mengkak Longhouse, we were surprised that the atmosphere inside was so much cooler compared to outside. It was probably due to the wooden floor boards, tree-bark wall and rattan mat ceiling that kept the heat out.

It was apparent that the longhouse folks were used to having tourists around judging from the many intricate handicrafts being offered on sale such as ornamental jewelry and wooden sculptures. It’s hard to resist getting one as souvenir. I had my heart set on the unique weaving but somehow managed to refrain myself from getting it knowing very well that nothing else would fit into my small suitcase anymore.

Our tour guide, Bob Zakaria, led us to the middle of the longhouse and signalled us to sit on the floor. Before we sat, we were introduced to the house chief, Burau Anak Buba, whose affectionate smile instantly made us feel welcome.

While the longhouse folks were preparing the welcome drink, which was the infamous tuak or rice wine, and changing into their traditional costumes to perform the traditional Iban dance, Bob explained more about the Iban’s customs and values. He taught us the right way to graciously refuse the offering of tuak as some of our Muslims friends were likely to do so. We were also informed that there were over 20 families living there.

When the tuak was finally served, I thought I would reject it too as I’m not much of a drinker. But after one sip, I did not just finish mine but also those who had rejected theirs. It was a bit sweet; like a fruity alcoholic drink. Apparently, the taste of the tuak is slightly different in every house. Some, according to friends, have a very strong smell that is quite unbearable.

The traditional dance followed right after. During the final dance, visitors were invited to join in. It was then that we realised that steps that looked simple can turn out to be quite a struggle for some of us.

The real fun for the folks started after all the dances finished. It was time to distribute the goodies that we had brought for them. Visitors to the Mengkak Longhouse or any longhouse for that matter are encouraged to buy some tidbits and goodies for the folks. We bought the stuff at Serian during our lunch stop. It’s a simple gesture that not only makes the house folks happy with our visits but also help to stimulate the economy of the small town.

“Do not buy sweets,” Bob had reminded us earlier in Serian. “God knows how far the nearest dentist is, if there’s ever one nearby.” he explained.

Instead, we bought them biscuits and dry food, especially the individually-wrapped ones so they could be shared and distributed among the 20 families in the house, as well as exercise books and stationery for the school-going children. These things might be available just a stone’s throw away from our house but for the longhouse folks, it takes a few hours of traveling in order to get them.

While the gifts were being distributed, some ladies from our group had already slipped into the Iban traditional costumes, parading up and down the longhouse and snapping photos of one another in various poses. Others were busy purchasing the tuak to be brought back home for friends and relatives to try.

In a nutshell, everyone had an enjoyable time there. When the time came to say goodbye, some were reluctant to leave, and even suggested spending a night at the longhouse next time. (Tourism Malaysia)




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